Story and Photos by Katy George
I’m pretty sure that, of all the vegetables, the potato is the least wild. Consider the evidence: the tubby little tubers are born underground, where, if given the chance, they would choose to stay forever, safe and sound. When compared to, say, peas, who twirl their little vines around anything they can find, the potato hardly seems like it earns the adjective “brave.”
Apparently, the Spaniards disagree. Patatas bravas (which translates literally to “brave or wild potatoes,” in case you missed that) are available in just about any restaurant here in the Iberian Peninsula and, misnomer aside, is probably one my favorite tapas. I like to think that the colors of the dish have something to do with its national appeal – the passionate red of the salsa brava and the sunny yellow of the fried spuds are almost exactly matched to the Spanish flag. And then there’s the taste: the lashings of subtly spiced tomato sauce is a welcome complement to the crispy potatoes underneath, and the garlicky alioli adds an extra little punch. All in all, the perfect Spanish comfort food.
Being culinarily inclined, I knew right away that I wanted to learn to make this ubiquitous little dish. Lucky for me, patatas bravas are cheap and fairly easy to make, and recipes are abundant. This one was hastily scribbled down during what was supposed to be a cooking class. The lesson turned out to be more of an excuse to eat a second lunch and drink a ton of hard cider with an old Spanish couple, but you won’t hear me complaining about false advertising. All measurements are approximate, so be sure to try a bit as you go along – la prueba, as Spanish cooks call tasting as you cook, is always the best part!
Side note: Traditionally, potatoes for patatas bravas are cut into medium-sized chunks, much like home fries in the US. I happen to think that chunky food is ugly, so I made mine with potato rounds. Unconventional, but we all have our quirks. Feel free to cut yours however you like.
 
Patatas Bravas
Makes enough for 4 to 6 people
Ingredients
5-6 medium yellow potatoes (Yukon gold is best), peeled and sliced into rounds
A lot of olive oil (seriously, just have the whole bottle out and ready to use)
1 small onion, chopped
2-3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, chopped (Canned tomatoes are an acceptable substitute in winter)
1 tbsp paprika*
Cayenne pepper to taste (I used a teaspoon or so)
2 tbsp sherry vinegar, separated
1 egg yolk
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper
* There are many different types of paprika on the market. Traditionally, brava sauce is made with pimentón picante, which is Spanish paprika that is just slightly spicy. I prefer a lot of heat, so I tend to use the spicier varieties, but that’s just me.
 
1. First, fry the potatoes. Heat plenty of olive oil in a large, thick-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Once hot (but not smoking), add potato rounds in batches andfry on both sides until golden-brown and crispy. Once done, wrap each batch in a thick paper towel to soak up any extra oil. Keep warm until ready to serve – I recommend putting them all into a baking pan and keeping them in the microwave (but don’t turn it on, trust me).
 
2. Meanwhile (or next, if you’re bad at multitasking), make the brava sauce. In a medium to large saucepan, heat some more olive oil (2 tablespoons or so) and sauté the onion over medium-high until soft and golden, around 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, paprika, and cayenne, stirring until well mixed. Bring mixture to boil, then turn down heat to simmer sauce for 15 to 20 minutes, or until thick. Take saucepan off heat and add one tablespoon vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. If you’re more into a smooth sauce (as I am), brava sauce may then be blended in a food processor and strained to remove tomato seeds and skins.
 
3. Make the alioli. Blend egg yolk, garlic, and one tablespoon olive oil in a food processor. With motor still running, gradually drizzle in 5 more tablespoons of olive oil until sauce is creamy, about the consistency of fresh mayonnaise. Dribble in one tablespoon of vinegar, then stop motor. Add salt and pepper to taste.
 
4. Finally, arrange potato slices on a platter. Pour brava sauce over potatoes until well coated, then drizzle alioli in lashings over the whole dish. Serve warm.

Gallery • 4 Photos

Guiri in the Kitchen: The Bravest Potato